Grants to Pie Town

Today I chose the initially paved Malpais Alternate, this did offer one reliable source of water and my first experience with a windmill. These windmills are the only source of water available for cattle and thus allows ranchers to maintain a herd in this arid environment. Since I have never seen one before, I approached it nervously until I had figured out its mechanics, now we're good friends. This route took me past the El Malpais National Monument and La Ventana Natural Arch, both spectacular views and mini side trips. Once I turned off the paved road I started to see the daily thunderstorms roll in, each one starts with wind and then an exponential increase in rain. Unlike many other parts of the route there is no cover in this stretch so I sat on the side of the road in the rain for half an hour. Rather risk sitting in the middle of nowhere then riding a lightning rod through the desert. Two lights in the distance led to a fellow teacher from Texas rescuing me from the rain and helping me with the last 10 miles. On arrival to Pie Town, I asked for the RV park which had been recommended to me in Platoro, although it didn't seem to exist. Instead I was offered the "Toaster House" owned by a women named Nita. It took me a while to understand the concept that there was a free house with a stocked fridge of pie's and beers, running water and electricity that was open to CDT hikers and GD riders alike, but I took full advantage of a sturdy roof and had a good nights rest.

Cuba to Pueblo Pintado

From here to Grants it 116 miles, this can be either two or three days. I chose to head to Pueblo Pintado, with little information of nearby services or surroundings. The ACA maps were not 100% accurate as far a services but it wasn't a bad stretch. The first gas station was located at around 30 miles and it was also my first meeting with someone from the "res" or member of the Navajo, he questioned whether or not Connecticut was a state but we had a great conversation as I stopped to refuel and rest the legs. Another 25 miles led to a small laundromat, and another conversation with a member of the Navajo, who asked whether or not I knew of the Mohegan Tribe. I replied that I was only aware of their $10 blackjack tables. We both had a soda and he mentioned that Pueblo Pintado was just not to far away and that their water tower was actually visible in the distance. There wasn't much to the town and I set up my tent in front of their gas station which was located right off the main road. It was a warm night but I would soon be up early to get a head start on the weather.

Chama to Cuba

Cuba or Coo-ba was a 65 mile stretch, predominantly on black top, which actually isn't too helpful when its over 90 degrees outside. It was a long ride to reach the El Vado reservoir where I poured out my remaining water bottles only to fill them again with colder refreshment, not matter how cold it doesn't take long for them to warm up again. I then entered the 16 mile off road stretch which was near unbearable. The mid day heat and dusty roads kept my legs spinning and mind set on seeing pavement again. The town of Regina offered no services since it was July 4th, and then it was a quick 12 miles to the town of Cuba. Thankfully there was a McDonald's located in Cuba, I was rather hoping for a Sonic since I had seen one in Salida, but a belly full of calories is happy either way. 5 miles from Cuba I stated to see and feel the effects from the Los Alamos fires (see pic below!), it was certainly harder to breath and the whole of Cuba was covered with smoke. Thankfully it had settled by the next morning.

Platoro to Chama

For both racers and divide riders alike, due to the recent fires near Los Alamos the route has been changed, mostly following the predetermined ACA alternates. Although I could have chosen to follow Micheal McCoy's advice to camp at Elk Creek Campground I choose to pedal all the way to Chama. Unknown territories and unknown adventures awaited. The days started following a forest road along "Rabbit" River, until..it started to rain, which lead to hail. The only hail storm in the entire state of Colorado. This meant a layover underneath a favorable pine tree. At least it was not as painful as the one I went through on the way to Butte. A quick stop on the way to Horca for a warm cup of coffee and then it was on to battle La Manga pass, otherwise known as a five mile climb which takes about an hour an a half with a BOB trailer. Due to a later start I hit the heat and slowly moved on to Cumbres Pass, thankfully this pass sat at a similar elevation and I reach it without even knowing. I did not pass a train on the Cumbres and Toltec Railway which was initially laid in the 1880's. Although I am pretty sure that the railway station does make an appearance in the Ride the Divide documentary. From there is was a lengthy but downhill coast, reaching speeds of 40mph and loving every minute of it. Ones legs can often goes to sleep at this time and they rarely cooperate afterward. Either way, I passed the welcoming signs to the "Land of Enchantment" and closed in on the town of Chama. Eager to eat and sleep after a lengthy 50 mile day.

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Del Norte to Platoro

Today started will 11 miles on pavement, and then a 12 mile climb to the highest peak on the divide. Indiana Pass, also known to locals as Grayback Pass is located at 11910ft which meant a 4000ft climb most of which takes part on gravel forest roads. On the way up I was fortunate to meet a buddy of Mathew Lee who helped out with the first five miles. I was soon overtaken by a divide racer and reached the top within 3 hours. From here there was a short climb to the abandoned town of Summitville and then downhill towards Stunner Campground, the designated rest stop. I chose to push further on which meant another climb of 4 miles to Stunner Pass and then coast on down to the town of Platoro. Even though I have stocked food for 4 days, there was another campground located here. I chose to camp in the RV park and was treated to a huge plate of ribs, potatoes, slaw, apple pie and a Coors Light. Enough food for at least 3 people. Although today's mileage hit the 50 mark, the roads were in decent shape, although I would often find that the dust kicked up by passing vehicles became it little irritating. A shower and good night sleep would lead to a late start tomorrow as I figure out the route from here, starting by paralleling the drainage basin of the Conejos River.

Update !

At the moment I am in limbo, will start out of Platoro today and head on the GDMBR to Horca. The goal is now to get to the border and not necessarily by way of the GDMBR. After talking with other past divide riders here in Platoro, we have set a different route to the border due to the wildfires along the route. So from now it is an adventure. So keep track of the GPS and we will see where it goes! Its looks like going through Sante Fe is the best the best option and then reconnecting with the GDMBR in Silver City, possibly resuplying in Lordsburg before the desolate stretch from Route 10 to the border. Next stopping point will be Chama or Abiquiu. Let the adventure begin..

Luders Creek to Del Norte

I had mixed feelings about arriving in Del Norte today, after all it was at least a 55 mile journey. Regardless, I set out to see how I would fare. Hopping in and out of the Rio Grande National Forest led to some wonderful scenery and brightly colored outcrops. A short climb up Canero Pass landed my at the Storm King campground which was actually under construction. I saw some familiar faces from Salida and filled my water bottles from the nearby creek. If I did not make it to Del Norte, at least I was in National Forest and able to camp anywhere. Right after leaving the Storm King CG, the heavens opened enough for the rain jacket, and I sat on the side of the road for half and hour until I could see the edge of the storm and quickly roll down the hill and out of its way. Still slightly wet I headed for the Penitent Canyon, a renowned sight for climbers and campers alike. The legs and ACL started to feel the length of the day as I skirted the Elephant Outcrops on the outskirts of Del Norte. Never before have I been to happy to see a large D on the side of a mountain, signaling the end of a day. Its difficult to keep motivated during many of these days, since every turn leads to another and every turn leads to another. But this D similar to Salida's glowing S (and heart shape) gave me confidence. Roads were generally in good shape for most of the day, and the San Luis Valley was certainly intriguing for those that have never experienced the sight. Tomorrow I climb out of Del Norte to the highest peak on the divide. In order to do this I will be climbing 4000ft in under 24 miles, to me that means an early start an extra peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.


P.S. A new slideshow in the tool bar on the right showcases pictures that have not been included in the posts! Enjoy!