Friday, July 9, 2010

Upper Lake Campground to Big Springs...actually Warm River


Since I was awake and out of "sleeping bag" at 7, I had no reason not to set off by 8.30, although the intended mileage was around 30 miles for the day. The day before, I had come to the
realization that my barometer and elevation marker was off by 1000ft!, not sure when this happened, and not sure whether or not it was actually comforting. But I re-calibrated it at Red Rock Pass (7120ft) which is also the border of Montana and Idaho. Finally finished with Montana!! It was a short but steep climb up to the pass, and a welcoming descent down to Henry's Lake. I arrived at Big Springs before 1pm and decided that it would be a waste to stop at that point. I refueled at the local grocery store, again eating too much and regretting it for the next 10 miles. I choose to head to Warm River via Route 20 and the Mesa Falls Byway. Knowing that this would put the days mileage near 60. As you may see from the GPS points I did stop halfway (I was not lost) but there was a local craft fair, which also provided rest for the legs. I turned onto the Mesa Falls Byway, which is a more scenic route to Ashton. Again another stop at the Lower Mesa Falls provided an opportunity for rest and pictures. My legs were hoping that the day would end and it was another 5 miles to the Warm River campground. Upon arrival, the "campground full" sign was disheartening, although Velma (the host) and her husband (Lynn) were absolutely amazing and found me a spot next to them. I was welcomed into their trailer for chili, and we shared stories until it was time for me to part ways for the night. This campground is certainly the best National Forest Service campground, which is in agreement with Micheal McCoys "Cycling the Great Divide" book. Slight showers did not dampen my nights sleep, and when I awoke I was again welcomed to their trailer for the morning's libation of caffeine. Thank you again for your generosity and kindness.

Miles: 60 (or 59.89)

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Lima to Upper Lake Campground


Still getting used to the long mileage and this day would be the longest I have ridden by far, especially since it was all off road. After 14 miles I passed the Lima reservoir and entered the desiccated countryside, traveling on gravel and dirt roads. As I entered the Red Rock Wildlife Refuge the scenery changed, I entered the wetlands and started to see forests again. The Red Rocks NWR was created for the protection and propagation of the trumpeter swan, this location is the only viable population of trumpeter swans in the entire U.S. I was also amazed to see a white pelican, and later found out that this was not a mistake. I stopped at the Lakeview Guest Ranch to have a quick chat and use their sprinklers to refill my water bottles. And quickly finished the remaining 5 miles to Upper Lake. A natural spring at the campground provided me with more than enough potable water and it was not long before I was joined by two others who were also doing the GDMBR, albeit on motorcycles. Somewhat jealous that I would only take them 13 days or so, we shared our stories and it certainly made the middle of nowhere feel a lot better. As a side not the mosquitoes at this campground were viscous and it forced me inside my tent by 8.30pm. Good luck to Isaac and his dad on the rest of their travels.

Miles: 55

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Bannack State Park to Lima


An early start again, I tried the visitors center for some hot water only to find that they did not open until 10am (it was my recollection that it was open at 8am). By the way, depending on my mood, I average a 45 min pack up time every morning. I headed off on the hilly, dusty and washboarded (still do not know that physical process which causes the roads to be like
this) road and felt the desertification of southern Montana. It was easy traveling over the Bannack Bench and I chose to head towards Route 15 to lengthen the day. Heading down Route 15, I stopped in Dell at the famous "Yesterdays Calf A" and chowed down a BLT and Dr. Pepper. I am always hungry but have to be careful when and how much I eat. Particularly when I still have decent mileage to go. The BLT tasted great although it made me eager to reach Lima. After camping for the last 3 nights I chose to stay at a motel and get everything clean again. The hosts were more that hospitable as they were well aware of the GDMBR, they gave me the largest room (actually had 4 beds in it) and I was able to get all of my laundry done. I headed out for some protein, and stopped at one of two restaurants in town. Here I was able to cook my own rib-eye with sides of salad, Texas toast and a baked potato. I barely got any sleep (maybe 2 or 3 hours) and that was probably due to the fact that I had 55 miles to do the next day!

Miles 48

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Little Joe to Bannack State Park


I awoke to a thin layer of frost coveting the view of my map, brushed quickly aside I ventured out of my tent to find that my water bottles had also frozen over night. Although I was not the first to get out of bed, I was the first to leave the campground. The ensuing 30 miles was mostly on pavement although a 6 mile climb greeted my morning slumber, I pushed and peddled my way past Elk Horn Hot Springs. The weather and the terrain made it tedious as I had to constantly stop and restart to put on an extra layer. Soon after noon I joined the TransAmerica Bicycle Trail (Virginia to Oregon), and headed down Country Road 278 to Bannack State Park. Bannack was named territorial capital in 1864, when the Montana Territory was split from the Idaho Territory. There is still a ghost town left from their mining heyday's. Since it was the last night that Dad would be in the area we took a ride to Dillon and saw the point where Lewis and Clarke triangulated their position, and then we had dinner at the Lions Den. An early night was needed for the next day as I planned to leapfrog to Lima (pronounced like the bean).

Miles: 38

Bannack State Park (Vigilante Campground)

Monday, July 5, 2010

Fleecer Ridge


The day started with a 6 mile climb, then bursting from the the trees I was confronted with the famous (or infamous) Fleecer Ridge. On the way up many had asked how I would arrive in Wise River and other said that I would "git her done". I arrived at the base of the ridge, out of breath and confident that I could at least push the bike up the ridge, and up the ridge, and up the ridge, all the way to 8000ft. All the way past my turning point to get off the ridge, and this is where I stayed for around an hour and a half. As you can see from the GPS, I never found the true way off the ridge. The "faded" path was certainly not there, and the barricade that I was meant to look for had fallen down. I did however see a road in the distance and since the ride to it was mentioned to be un-ridable I figured that I didn't have the strength to bushwhack over to it. So I took an equally strenuous path down the way I came and lost mileage for the day. I had to take the paved alternate to Wise River and arrived just in time to refuel at the only store in town. No reception made it tricky to link up with Dad, but we found each other and made it to Little Joe Campground.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Butte to Beaver Dam Campground


A days rest certainly helped the knee and I feel refreshed as I set off for my 5th continental divide crossing. Much off the day was spent in high streamless country near the top of the Butte watershed, where camping is not allowed. Near the peak there was a nice view of Butte and also the Berkley Mining operation. Most of the day was spent rocky and dusty forests roads as I climbed up to the divide, this lead to a fast paced decent to route 15 and the big decision for the day. Would I take the alternate around the famous Fleecer Ridge or ride up to Beaver Dam campground and tackle the ridge in the morning? I decided to tackle the ridge, following the forest roads 6 miles into the mountains and settling down for the night.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Boulder to Helena


Still continuing to follow the mapped "Boulder Alternate", I left Boulder and passed over the Boulder River onto the non maintained cattle access path, this paralleled route 15, and after a short 5 miles crossed over to the western side of the highway. Here I followed the trail high above the highway and maintained a steady elevation of around 6100ft. Not an easy trail, as recent rain and hail had caused rivers to burst their banks and sink holes to form in the trail. It started to cool down to 60 degrees as I entered Butte, but before I descended into Butte (or "Butte America" thanks to those in Boulder) I passed my second Continental Divide Crossing. A days rest is needed to work out a problem with my knee and plenty of icy hot will be applied to get it working again. The journey will continue tomorrow!! with 37 miles to Beaver Creek Campground, and an important decision with Fleecer Ridge looming in the distance.